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Mount Inunaki, located in Izumisano City, is close to Kansai International Airport. Though Osaka Prefecture is known for its urban image, it is a mystical space of vast nature, including valleys and forests. We'll explore Mount Inunaki with Griffin, a native of Hong Kong, and learn about the traditional prayer experience at Shippo Ryuji Temple, Mount Inunaki Onsen, and the local gourmet food you can sample.
Related Tours
Trekking at Mount Inunaki and Goma Fire Ritual in Osaka
- Experience the sacred Goma ritual of entrusting your wishes to the flames at Shipporyu-ji Temple, nestled in the deep silence of the sacred Mount Inunaki.
- Blazing flames, resonating mantras, and a solemn atmosphere that envelops the whole body. Enjoy a special experience that you cannot experience in your daily life at this authentic training ground that still lives on today.
- A genuine spiritual experience that connects you to Japanese culture that has been passed down for 1,300 years
Izumisano City, located in the southern part of Osaka Prefecture, is known as the city that houses Kansai International Airport and is the gateway to Japan, attracting people and goods from both within and outside the city. Izumisano Fishing Port, which boasts one of the largest catches in Osaka Prefecture, is also known as a popular spot visited by many people from both within and outside the city.
While airports and fishing ports are concentrated along the coast, the inland side of the city is home to a rich natural landscape that is hard to believe is in Osaka Prefecture. Mount Inunaki, which we visited this time, is a place where you can fully enjoy the nature of Izumisano, and is also known as a sacred place opened by En no Gyoja, the founder of Shugendo.
Even today, many ascetics visit the mountain, and it is worshipped as a gyoba* (training ground) where women can also practice, which is rare even in Japan. Since ancient times, the mountain itself has been considered a sacred object, and you can feel its mystical aura just by walking on it.
*Practice site: A specific place where ascetics (shugenja) carry out their training.
Mount Inunaki, surrounded by primeval forests enveloping the valley and numerous waterfalls, is home to Mount Inunaki Shippo-ryuji Temple, the headquarters of Shugendo, a place of prayer and training with a history of over 1,300 years. Furthermore, at the foot of the mountain is Mount Inunaki Onsen, a popular hot spring resort for healing the body and mind.
This time, we will tour the Inunakiyama area in early winter, when the autumn leaves are still in full bloom, and walk along the approach to Shipporyu-ji Temple. To conclude the trip, we will enjoy the hot springs and local cuisine at the historic local inn, Inunakiyama Onsen Fudoguchikan.
Guide
Living in Hyogo Prefecture / From Hong Kong
She came to Japan after marrying a Japanese man and worked as a flight attendant. She currently works as a model and interpreter.
Her hobbies are volleyball, drawing, and traveling. Her dream is to travel all over Japan while she is still alive.
The bus stop is right next to the station. Hop on the bus and head to Mount Inunaki.
You can get to Mount Inunaki by taking the Nankai Wing Bus Inunaki Line from Izumisano Station. The bus stop is right outside the east exit of Izumisano Station, so it's easy to get lost even if you're not familiar with the area, which is a great point for tourists. The bus runs about once an hour, so be sure to check the timetable before you set off. This time, I took the bus that departed at 9:10am on a weekday morning.
The entire mountain is a power spot! Experience the rich nature of this sacred mountain, the birthplace of Shugendo, and receive blessings.
Mount Inunaki has long been known as a sacred site for Shugendo, and the entire mountain, with Shippōryū-ji Temple at its centre, is a sacred spot worshipped as a sacred mountain (a sacred mountain where gods and Buddhas are enshrined).As it is also known as the "sacred mountain where Shugendo originated", it has a long history, having been founded in 661 AD by En no Gyoja, the "founder of Shugendo".
Additionally, Kukai* also practiced his asceticism on Mount Inunaki, and legend has it that he enshrined the Seven Gods of Fortune at each of the seven waterfalls scattered within the mountain. For this reason, it is said that if you visit Shipporyu-ji Temple, you will receive the protection of Acala and all seven gods of fortune at once, and so there is no end to the number of worshippers who come from all over the country.
*Kukai: A monk from the early Heian period known as the founder of Shingon Buddhism. He is also known as "Kobo Daishi," a title bestowed upon him by Emperor Daigo after his death.
Now, let's head to the mountain path towards Shippo-ryuji Temple!
The mountain leading to Shipporyu-ji Temple is filled with beautiful natural scenery, including scattered waterfalls and large cypress trees. This mysterious forest has been selected as one of the "100 Best Green Areas in Osaka," and on this day we passed many tourists enjoying trekking.
"People in Hong Kong love trekking too," says Griffin. Hong Kong may have an image of a bustling downtown with shining neon signs, but it's actually a lush green location with more than 40% of the total area made up of national parks and nature reserves.
There are many historical sites scattered throughout the mountains, and Griffin stopped many times to look with great interest at the Jizo statues and stone tablets that tell the history of Mount Inunaki.
According to a signboard in the mountains, the name Inunakiyama comes from the legend of a hunter and his loyal dog. Around 890 AD, a hunter was hunting a deer when his dog barked loudly, causing the prey to escape. In anger, the hunter beheaded the dog. However, a large snake was lurking nearby, and the hunter realized that the dog was trying to protect its master. He felt remorseful and became a monk, and is said to have spent the rest of his life praying for the dog's soul.
It is said that when Emperor Uda heard this story, he was so moved by the dog's loyalty that he issued an imperial decree to change the place name to "Inunakiyama."
While I was surprised at the slightly sad origins of Mt. Inunaki, I continued along the approach to the temple and came across the eye-catching vermilion Zuiryumon Gate! Feeling the extraordinary atmosphere, I passed through the gate and headed towards Shipporyu-ji Temple.
Who would have thought that such vast nature could be found so close to Osaka city! Many Hong Kongers who visit Japan are repeat visitors, so I would definitely recommend this place to people who say, "I've been to the city before, so this time I want to visit a hidden gem in Japan!"
Visit the auspicious spots at Shipporyuji Temple, including the Kannon Bodhisattva, Fudo Myo-o, and Gyoja no Taki waterfall
After walking through the mountains for about 30 to 40 minutes, we finally arrive at Shippo-ryuji Temple! First, we visit the hall where the Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva, the Goddess of Mercy, is enshrined. Created by Kobo Daishi, the Kannon statue with eleven faces on its head is believed to have the power to ward off evil and protect from misfortune, and has been worshipped since ancient times. Previously, it was only possible to view the statue once every ten years, but now, the Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva Memorial Service for Warding Off Evil is held every April, allowing visitors to encounter its divine form.
As you walk towards the main hall, you will be greeted by a gigantic Acala! It is said to be 8 meters long. It is the largest bronze statue in Japan, and when you see it in person, it is quite impressive.
This red building is the Seiryudo Hall, located within the grounds of Shipporyu-ji Temple. It serves as the reception and meeting place for Shugendo training experiences, as well as a rest area, and its beautiful vermilion color, which stands out against the greenery of Mount Inunaki, creates a mystical atmosphere.
A short walk from the main hall of Shipporyu-ji Temple will bring you to Gyoja-no-taki Waterfall. In fact, Shipporyu-ji Temple is one of the few sacred mountains in Japan where you can experience a one-day training, and you can even experience a waterfall training here at Gyoja-no-taki Waterfall! While many sacred mountains prohibit women from entering, this training can be experienced by both men and women, so it is also known as "Women's Omine." Anyone can participate, regardless of nationality or gender, as long as you make a reservation in advance*, and in recent years it has become popular with foreign tourists.
*Age restrictions apply.
Acceptance period: First Sunday in March, third Sunday from April to November (reservations required)
*Not available from December to February.
Participation fee: 8,000 yen (including rental fee for waterfall robes)How to apply: Apply on the official website at least 10 days in advance.
Official website
*If you have any questions, please contact the main hall of Inunakiyama Shippo-ryuji Temple (072-459-7101).
*Applications will close once the maximum number of participants has been reached.
*On the day of participation, sandals, shorts, skirts, etc. cannot be worn.
Entrust your wishes to the blazing flames. Experience the Goma Fire Prayer Ritual at the main hall of Shipporyu-ji Temple.
Shipporyu-ji Temple has many attractions, including a lush green approach to the temple and a solemn waterfall. In the main hall, you can also experience the special prayer ritual "Goma."
Goma prayer is a ritual with roots in esoteric Buddhism, in which pieces of wood with wishes written on them, called "gomagi," are burned in the flames on a "Goma" (fire altar) in front of the principal image of the deity, Kurikara Fudo Myo-o. Goma means "to burn" in Sanskrit, and because fire burns up everything on earth, it is said to be a sacred thing that removes desires and impurities from the soul.
The monk who performed the Goma fire ritual this time, Koken Farley, is actually originally from Ohio, USA! He first became interested in Japanese Buddhism after coming to Japan for work. He began studying and practicing Buddhism in 2020, and after obtaining the necessary qualifications, he has been serving as a monk at Shippōryū-ji Temple since 2023.
"Recently, we've seen an increase in overseas visitors who want to learn about Japanese religions. When I first came into contact with Buddhism, I was confused by the differences in religious attitudes between Japan and overseas, but I would be happy if people from various countries could understand the appeal and wonder of Buddhism," says Farley Koken. As he is bilingual and can speak both English and Japanese, he can provide easy-to-understand explanations about Buddhism and Goma, even for overseas visitors who may find the language barrier difficult.
Goma prayer is not just about chanting sutras, but is also characterized by the use of flames made from Goma wood.
First, a platform is made by combining pieces of wood, and a place for the Buddha to sit on is prepared on it. After that, a ritual is held in which people's wishes are conveyed to Acala by burning Goma wood in a fire.
He explained that by throwing various offerings such as rice, grains, incense, and flowers into the fire during the prayer and letting them burn, the prayer conveys the image of "offering nutrients to the Buddha to give him strength, and then sharing some of that energy with us."
At Shipporyu-ji Temple, you can apply for a Goma prayer any time, 365 days a year. Prayers are offered for a variety of requests, such as for the safety of your family, business prosperity, and good relationships, so be sure to try a full-scale prayer experience. You can also participate in a prayer on the same day as a "One-Day Training Experience" that includes waterfall training, so if you would like to participate, be sure to let us know when you apply for the experience.
Shiphoryu Temple also aims to create an environment where everyone can enjoy their meals with peace of mind, catering to the diverse food cultures and eating habits of tourists visiting from overseas. In the future, they plan to offer plant-based bento lunches using MIRA-Dashi®* to those who sign up for the "One-Day Training Experience" and "Goma Prayer." These will be available in places like the sutra copying room at Shiphoryu Temple.
*MIRA-Dashi®: A plant-based flavoring ingredient that can be used like dashi, developed by Fuji Oil Co., Ltd., based in Izumisano City.
You can also purchase gifts and original goods in the main hall. You can get things like Inunakiyama exclusive amulets, original tumblers printed with the motif of the guardian dog that gave Mount Inunaki its name, and Senshu towels, a specialty of the Senshu region, so don't forget to check out the souvenirs before you leave!
I was a little nervous about the Goma prayer in the main hall, where the atmosphere changed completely from the natural mountain scenery...! But as I listened to the mantra and gazed at the flames, I strangely felt calm. I hope that Fudo Myo-o will reach my wish!
Enjoy the hot springs and "Inunaki Pork" while taking in the spectacular view of Mt. Inunaki!
After exploring Mount Inunaki and Shippo-ryuji Temple, it's already lunchtime. We'll end our trip with a day trip to a hot spring inn and enjoy the local specialty, "Inunaki Pork"!
So, I arrived at Inunakiyama Onsen Fudoguchikan, located right next to the bus stop. This is a long-established hot spring inn founded in 1932. In fact, Inunakiyama is famous as the only hot spring resort in Osaka Prefecture, and since the opening of Kansai International Airport, it has also been called "the closest hot spring in the world."
"In Hong Kong, we don't have the habit of soaking in a bathtub, so facilities where you can enjoy a bath, like public baths or hot springs, aren't common," says Griffin. There are hot springs all over the country, and the Japanese custom of visiting public baths on a daily basis feels like a very special experience to her.
From the large public bath at Fudoguchikan, you can enjoy a view of the natural beauty of Mount Inunaki, and relax in the hot springs while listening to the sound of the river flowing. All the fatigue from your trekking will be instantly blown away.
After your bath, take a relaxing break in your room. From the window, you can enjoy the natural scenery of Mt. Inunaki. This time, we visited in December, when there were still some autumn leaves, but the charm of visiting Mt. Inunaki is that you can enjoy the different faces of nature with each season: the calls of Japanese bush warblers and Japanese frogs and cherry blossoms in spring, the sounds of cicadas and fresh greenery in summer, and the cool, clear air in winter.
After a relaxing bath and a rest in the room, it's finally time for the long-awaited lunch. This time, we're having a miso hotpot made with Inunaki Pork, a brand of pork from the Senshu region.
Inunaki pork is raised on a homemade feed and is raised for a longer period than other pigs before it is shipped, and while it has a strong sweetness and flavor, it also has a light texture that makes you want to eat it. The ability to taste local ingredients that are hard to find even in Osaka Prefecture is one of the attractions of being a little away from the city center.
The nature seen in the mountains and the nature seen from the inn have a completely different atmosphere, and are very soothing. Pork is also commonly used in Cantonese cuisine, so I would recommend that people from Hong Kong try "Inunaki Pork"! In the souvenir corner, I was intrigued by the foods made with local ingredients.
A half-day day trip to Mount Inunaki where you can enjoy nature, spirituality, and gourmet food
Mount Inunaki is packed with all the charms of Japan, from mountain scenery that reflects the four seasons to historic temples and hot springs. After a leisurely half-day stroll, Griffin commented, "I've lived in Kansai for a long time, so I'd heard of the place, but I had no idea it was such a refreshing place! I'd love to tell my friends in Hong Kong about it." The Mount Inunaki area can be accessed by public transportation from Osaka city, and it takes less than an hour from Kansai International Airport. Enjoy a wonderful retreat at this power spot that combines nature, spirituality, and gourmet food.
Photo: Yuji Takatsu
Edit: Yuji Takatsu
Direction: Ningen Henshusha
Related Tours
Trekking at Mount Inunaki and Goma Fire Ritual in Osaka
- Experience the sacred Goma ritual of entrusting your wishes to the flames at Shipporyu-ji Temple, nestled in the deep silence of the sacred Mount Inunaki.
- Blazing flames, resonating mantras, and a solemn atmosphere that envelops the whole body. Enjoy a special experience that you cannot experience in your daily life at this authentic training ground that still lives on today.
- A genuine spiritual experience that connects you to Japanese culture that has been passed down for 1,300 years
